Cold Frame Gardening

If you live in a colder climate, cold frame gardening can extend your gardening season through autumn and even into winter! Cold frame gardening is also great for starting seedlings in the early spring for summer planting or for root vegetable gardening and many tender plants such as lettuce.

While there are a few basics to keep in mind when building and placing your cold frame, you can let your budget and your imagination be your guide. You can build your frame out of almost any material ranging from bales of hay to concrete or brick. Building a cold frame is a great way to re-purpose wood and windows. All you have to remember is that you need 4 walls to trap heat and moisture and clear lid to let in the light. This can windows, plexi glass, or plastic sheeting.

Your lid size will determine the size of your cold frame. They can be as large as you want to make them, but usually they are no larger than 3x6 with the back at least 4-6 inches higher than the front.

You will want to place your cold frame facing south with good drainage and some protection from the wind. If you have an area that is slightly sloped, this would be ideal. You can make your cold frame a permanent fixture or design it so that you can break it down when not in use.

Temperature is the key to gardening with a cold frame. You will want the temperature to be cool instead of warm. You can adjust the temperature by raising the lid. Just be sure to close it at night. If it is extremely cold, you may have to add some additional insulation such as hay, old blankets or newspapers to the top.

Cold frames are also great for storing dormant plants over the winter. You will want to place them in pot and cut them back before storing. Place them tightly in the cold frame and add leaves or mulch to any gaps.

Cold frames are great to start seedlings since they will be better acclimated to the climate outside. If you are using a portable cold frame, make sure to have it up and ready at least 2 weeks prior to starting your seedlings to give the soil time to get warm.

Here are a couple of sites that offer much more information regarding temperature regulation and ideas for types of plants that you can grow in your cold frame.

As always your comments are welcome!

Chemical Free Weedkillers: Do They Work?

If you have looked in your garden or flower beds, you have noticed the ever present weed. If you are like me, you just pull it up and keep going. However, there are some pretty persistent weeds out there that can be daunting to get rid of to say the least.

In some areas of the yard and garden you can use "natural" weedkillers such as vinegar, borax, salt, or baking soda. Or, you could go totally green and just continue to pull them. I have several of those persistent weeds in my beds and yard. Unfortunately, I may have to revert to chemically treating them to get them under control. But, not just yet! 

Borax as a weedkiller can be good and bad depending on the amount used and the area you are treating. There are many recipes for using borax as a weedkiller on the web but, you do need to keep in mind that less is more in this case. A University of Wisconsin researcher has noted that too much boron will kill all vegetation. Since the chemical does not degrade please use sparingly or nothing will grow in the affected area. 

Salt is another option. But, which salt? Table salt? Epsom salt? Rock salt? Salt is salt so you can use whichever type you prefer. You need to exercise caution when using salt. Fertilizer is a salt so if you have ever used too much fertilizer, you know that plants can "burn up". It will also get into your soil and can stay there for a very long time causing damage to distant plants. Salt can be used sparingly  in driveways and sidewalks.

Vinegar is probably the most popular item used for weed control. Vinegar like salt, removes the moisture from plants. So while leaves may dry up and die, the root may still be able to produce weeds. Vinegar is not selective so it will kill whatever it comes in contact with. As with the above listed items, vinegar should be used with caution. 

Most recipes call for the addition of soap. You will want to use regular dish soap. Jerry Baker recommends that you do not use an antibacterial dish soap. The addition of soap helps the liquid to stick to the leaves and lets you know where you have sprayed.

There are some natural weedkillers that are available through your local home improvement center or the web. The recipes available for the above listed items are endless. Remember what worked for that guy in Minnesota may not work for your garden in Georgia. I did find this article that addresses some other issues with natural weedkillers. 

If anyone has tried any of these items as a weedkiller please feel free to leave your results below. As always, I would love to hear from you!

Willow Water: Nature's Root Planting Hormone

We have all seen that one tree or plant that makes us wish we had one exactly like it. While there are many plants and trees that can be grown from cuttings, there are just as many that require a root hormone to get a cutting to grow. If you look at your local nursery or home garden center, you can find many root planting hormone products. These can be liquid or powder in form and require very little to get you started. But, why buy when you can the same thing for free?

I have been very fortunate with my plants. With the exception of a very few, they have all been given to me by friends and family. Most of my plants came from cuttings or were given to me as small plants that had a good established root system.

But, my neighbor has this beautiful blossoming cherry tree that I would love to get a cutting from! So in my quest for a greener way to do things, I started searching the web. I found this very interesting article on making Willow Water to use as a root hormone for plants. What is really great about this method is that it is easy, relatively fast to do and free! No trips to the nursery, no powders that may or may not work after an extended period of time, and I don't have to find a place to store anything!

Before I give you the recipe please note that you can use any member of the Willow family including pussy willows! So look around your yard or neighborhood or park for willow trees to make your own root hormone.

Willow Water:

1. Collect first year twigs and stems of any willow species,these have green or yellow bark. Don't use older growth that has brown or gray bark.

2. Remove all the leaves as you do not need these. You can add these to your compost or mulch in the garden.

3. Take the twigs and cut them in to about 1" long pieces.

4.  The next step is to add water. There are a couple of ways to extract the natural root planting hormones:
     A) place the twigs in a container and cover with boiling water, as in making tea and allow the "tea" to sit overnight.
     B) Place the twigs in a container and cover with unheated tap water and let is soak for several days.

5. When finished, separate the twigs/stems from the liquid by pouring carefully or using a strainer. Your liquid is now ready to use! You can store it in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 months.

6. To use, just pour some into a small jar and put the cuttings in the liquid and leave overnight or for several hours so they can soak up the plant rooting hormone. Then prepare them as you would when propagating any other cuttings.

The second way to use willow water is to use it to water the propagating medium in which you have placed your cuttings. Watering twice with willow water should be enough to get them on their way.

I can't wait to try this with roses and hydrangeas from my sister's garden and of course the cherry tree from my neighbor!

As always I would love to hear your comments. Happy rooting!

Raised Bed Gardening: Some Pros And Cons

This year was my first year to try and do some raised bed gardening. While the above photo is not my bed, hubby and I did construct a similar bed. Since this was my first year to try this, I am not completely sold on it yet. But, I am hoping that with some of my new found knowledge albeit trial by error, that next year will be a better year for me.

You can construct a raised bed out of almost any type of material. I used 2x6s that were treated. I know this is not the way to go now, but at the time I using what was within my limited budget. I also used weed barrier cloth that was given to me to line the bottom. You could use newspapers or cardboard to put in the bottom of your bed to keep the weeds away.

You can construct your raised bed from many different options depending on your budget. I have seen beds made with cinder blocks, cedar, re-purposed wood, and many types of stone including brick and what is known around here as "Arkansas flat stone". The possibilities are endless.

I think the biggest advantage for me with a raised bed was that it was easier to work. Because I filled it with compost, I did not need anything other than basic gardening tools to work the dirt. I also liked the fact that weeds are at a minimum since the area is confined. I really enjoyed trying to plan out what to plant where and how to maximize my space. Also, now that the season is almost over, I can use my bed as a compost bin which is a great advantage.

Other than the initial expense involved in constructing a raised bed, water is the biggest issue. Because the area is raised, it drys out faster and it takes more water to keep things growing properly. My tomatoes suffered from "leaf curl" which I later learned was caused from irregular watering. I would recommend that you consider how much you can or are willing to water before you use a raised bed. I do have a rain barrel and a soaker hose that I used but, I still needed to water on a more regular schedule.

If your soil is mostly clay or some other hard soil, or if you live in an area with contaminated soil, a raised bed is a good option if you want to grow your own food. This article is a very good place to start to learn what you can plant safely in contaminated soil. She also lists some of her own pros and cons of raised gardening.

Soil "shrinkage" is another disadvantage with this method. This is easily remedied by using your beds as a compost bin during the off season. Raised beds are nothing more than big containers so keep that in mind when planning your garden. You can go here to read 5 common problems and solutions with raised bed gardening.

If you fill your raised bed with compost, your ph should be around 6 or 7 which is neutral (good). I am not well versed in all the ph lingo but, I do know that you should have your soil tested before you just start adding things like lime and other chemicals. Lime takes a while to get into the soil so you will want to add that at the end of your growing season so that it has time to get into the soil.

Nitrogen is another nutrient that you will hear people tell you to add to your soil. There are plants that will naturally add nitrogen to your soil. You can also add coffee grounds to your soil. If you have access to chickens, their droppings are a good source of nitrogen for your garden. I found this article concerning nitrogen that gives some great advice on how to test for nitrogen in your garden.

Raised beds can be a great option for many experienced and novice gardeners alike. If you think you have a "brown thumb", I would suggest some fuss free plants to give you some confidence in your growing abilities. I would also start small if you have limited funds. Look around you and see what you have that can be re-purposed into raised bed materials. Think outside the box and surprise yourself with your own ingenuity!

As always I would love to hear your comments and tips!

Pick Your Own

Living in the south will definitely spoil you if you love fresh produce. There are Farmer's Markets, roadside stands and Pick Your Own Farms everywhere. I like to visit all of these as often as possible. The key to getting the best looking and the "pick of the litter" if you will, is to get there early. I do mean EARLY. Usually in my area by about 9 or 10 in the morning, everything has been handled and picked over.

There are several "pick your own" farms around me that offer everything from tomatoes to nectarines depending on the time of year. If you are strictly organic, you definitely want to ask questions before you grab your buckets and go off to grab those strawberries. If you aren't able to pick your produce yourself, these farms usually sell produce they have picked themselves although the price is a little higher.

Pick your own farms are a great way to supplement your freezer for the winter especially if you are unable to have a garden of your own. It is also a great learning experience for the kids so don't hesitate to take them along! You could also go in "halves" with a friend or family member so that you both can share in the fun of picking your own food.

Below are some tips to keep in mind before visiting a pick your own farm. While these may not apply to all, they are general things that you could always ask about when you call the farm before visiting.

1. Dress appropriately. If you are going to be cutting okra, remember these are "sticky" plants. The leaves can irritate your skin so wear a light weight long sleeve shirt and maybe some light weight warm ups over your shorts. Remember to bring some gloves also.

2. Bring your own buckets. If you call ahead, you can ask how much it costs per bushel, half bushel, etc. While most of us don't have bushel baskets lying around, you can use just about any type of bucket. The farmer will usually have bushel baskets that he will move your produce into to give you the correct price. If you do not have access to a bucket, ask them if they have some you can use. Make sure you ask if there is an additional cost involved.

3. Bring your own tools. These would include gloves, a good knife that you can use to cut stems or a pair of snippers of some sort. Carry something to sit on. An extra 5 gallon bucket, a small stool or anything else that does not require a lot of room. Make sure you also wear a hat and bring that sunscreen!

4. Remember that you will be picking with other people. The rows are close together so plan on having just enough room to move between the rows. The good thing about this is that you can work 2 rows at the same time.

While this isn't a complete list, it gives you an idea of what it is like to pick your own produce at a larger garden than your backyard. The link above is a great place to start your search for a pick your own farm in your area. So grab the kids and those buckets and get to picking!

No Diggity My Experiences With A No Dig Garden

Since I don't live in a Martha Stewart Compound, I am somewhat limited as to what I can grow. I have tried various plants of various varieties. I have tried a few methods that are more conducive to the way of life I am trying to achieve. Since I am not a horticulturist nor a soil engineer, my methods have all been the trial and error kind. I am hoping that you can learn from me and I can learn from you.

The last house I lived in had absolutely no trees in the backyard! I truly had a blank canvas to work with. I am a big fan of the "no dig" method of gardening for a couple reasons. The first being I don't have to call all the utility companies and wait for them to come out and mark the spots of all the various lines that run from the house. I also do not own all the equipment required for traditional gardening.

This method is time consuming but I do like the idea of being able plant without all that preparation beforehand. While there are many ways to use the no dig method, I usually take the easiest way so I can get in the dirt sooner. The first time I used this method I took a large tarp and covered the ground that I had chosen for my garden. Like most people, I decided in the summer that I should have planted a garden.This actually worked because I was able to get the ground prepped all winter. You can also just cover the ground with newspapers or cardboard and add mulch or compost or both to get the desired depth. I chose to kill the grass with the tarp because I have used newspapers and the like in my flower beds and I find that this is a sufficient method for smaller areas. Newspapers take about 18 months to decompose so you may have to add more newspapers the following year to keep weeds under control. If you have a compost bin, you can use your own compost. Most nurseries will sell you compost so check around and make sure that you are getting compost and not mulch. The only thing I added to the soil was turkey manure.

My first experience was not a Martha Stewart moment. I knew nothing about companion planting or watering or even if I was planting things at the right time of the year. I know a lot of this sounds pretty dim witted but, I used my local garden center and as you know, they usually put everything out in the spring whether it is the proper time or not. So needless to say, it was hit or miss. I did manage to get tomatoes, hot peppers and bell peppers. Not to shabby for my first time!

I have since moved in to an older subdivision that has more mature trees in the yard. There are also animal issues such as birds, squirrels, cats and the like. I tried my hand at raised gardening this year and the jury is still out on whether I will use this method again or not. I do have some ideas that I am going to try next year but that is for another post.

Happy planting and thanks for stopping by!